Friday, August 20, 2010

Up and above.

On the sunny Sunday morning as we arrived at the Interlaken east railway station the Berner Oberland bahn leaving for Lauterbrunnen was already at the station. We had already decided our route to reach the top of Europe before leaving for Switzerland. The choice of the route was very common and obvious one. We rushed to catch the train and managed to get window seats of us. Settling in the train with Arnav and his pram is a task which we still haven't mastered so well! 
I was fully charged up with my cruise on the Lake Thun on the previous evening and was looking forward for this train journey. The memories of my last train journey  from Garmisch to the snow clad peak of Zugspite was still fresh in my mind. Even though I knew that this was a similar journey I was hoping for a new experience.
The first part of the journey from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen was of 20 minutes. As the train sped over a relatively gentle terrain the nature began to unfold its panorama in front of us. The melting snow cascaded down the hills in numerous foaming shallow streams. The foothills along the tracks were adorned with dense coniferous trees sprinkled with small houses. Lush greens meadows spread on the hill slopes were basking in the summer sun. .The wild flowers blooming on the lush green meadows make a colourful weave in the entire landscape. The Swiss Pines and the Spruces dominated the upper part of the hills. 
   
As we reached Lautenbrunnen the connecting train was already waiting to take the passengers to Kleine Scheidgge, the next destination on this route. We decided to leave this train and take a short walk around the station area. As we came out of the station the tall montains welcomed us and we got the first glimpse of snow capped mountain range framed between the bald white cliffs.
The surrounding landscape proved true to its name "Lauterbrunnen" which is a combination of lauter meaning many, and brunnen meaning spring or fountain. We could see the slender streams meandering through the hilly terrain as we walked along the railway tracks.
The  warm sunshine blended comfortably with the chill of the winds making it a perfect day to enjoy the snow. 

After enjoying the walk for about 1/2 an hour we returned to the station to catch the next train going to Kleine Scheidgge. The Wengernalpbahn is the world's largest rack railway line which runs from Lauternbrunen and Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidgge.
The train crawled uphill through the steep mountainous terrain with large panorama of Eiger and Lauberhorn peaks on either side. As we moved up the mountains grew taller and the valleys sunk deeper.The trees started disappearing from the landscape leaving large expanse of lush green meadows with abundant wild flora. Soon we were tucked in the blanket of white fluffy clouds giving an occasional glimpse of the snow covered mountain tips.  As we reached the station we were well above the clouds and the bright blue sky shone brightly above us.
Kleine Scheidegge station is surrounded by small cosy hotels and restaurants which serve as the final resting point before the final part of the journey to the Jungfraujoch station. 
Trees completely disappear from the landscape in this region. The aeonian grasslands are intersected by the twisting railway track with canopies bridging over occasional streams and slender trails. The bright red railcars look like small caterpillars crawling up on the green lawns.
We boarded the Jungfraubahn to cover the final part of our jouney to be on the top of Europe. As soon as the train started the LCD screens in the railcars lit up. We were welcomed in German, French, English and Japenese languages. As soon as we entered the first tunnel the short documentary took us through history of the Jungffraubahn. It was an quite an impressive documentary which described the conception and construction of this engineering marvel  through old pictures and video clips.It also gave us inforamation about the interesting experience that was waiting for us at the Jungfraujoch. 
The entire journey of 9 kms was covered through three tunnels which spanned across the height of 1393m. A lot of passengers got down at the Eigernordwand and Eismeer railway stations to enjoy the panoramic view of the through the viewing galleries. We missed the opportunity as Arnav was taking his afternoon nap on our laps! 
Soon we reached the final destination at Jungfraujoch, the highest railway station in Europe. The entire journey up to the top was a memorable and refreshing experience which had raised our expectations about the actual destination.
Jungfraujoch  was a mesmerising experience by itself. The ice sculptures in the Ice Palace, the breathtaking  view of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau rising above the clouds from the Viewing Plateau and the Sphinx terraces were experience of lifetime.  we were looking forward to enjoy the Alpine panorama once again although we were completely exhausted by the time we reached the platforms to commence our journey downhill.
The scenic views and the steaming Swiss cheese Fondue ( a local delicacy) in Grindelwald  made the return journey a perfect finale of this entire experience.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Rendezvous with the Thunersee.


Falling from the sky, cascading over the hills, meandering through the farms or relaxing within the shores, water has always fascinated me in all its natural forms. Roaring waves, dancing droplets and gushing streams always play new sonata every time I hear them.  

I have some fond memories about my association with water. The houseboat stay in the backwaters of Allepy was romantic, para sailing over the Arabian sea in Goa was adventurous, changing of small fishermen boats to reach the Janjira Fort in Alibagh was scary and many more.

The cruise over the Lake Thun was a new experience altogether.

After relaxing in our hotel room in Beatenberg for about an hour, PrasadArnav (my 18 months old son) and I reached Interlaken at 3.00pm. The brief showers had dipped the mercury levels to 17 degrees Celsius, the wind was carrying the chill and the sun was relaxing behind the clouds. We decided to cruise over the calm Thunsersee instead of taking a walk through the crowded streets of Interlaken. Luckily we reached the Interlaken west station in time to get the last cruise going to Thun. We were not sure if Arnav will enjoy the criuse for a long time so we decided to sail up to Speiz for 1 1/2 hours instead sailing the entire route up to Thun for 3 hours.


We boarded the Bubenberg near Interlaken west station and three cheerful sailors welcomed us on the ship. It was a small ship with a lounge, a play area for kids and a restaurant. The open decks at both the ends had comfortable seating arrangement. After taking a walk in the  aisle with us Arnav joined the kids in the play area. Prasad and I went on the deck where a group of Japanese passengers were taking each other's snaps in the scenic backdrop. Small  groups of other passengers were engaged in a quiet conversation in the restaurant.
The ship started its journey through a narrow canal with a backdrop of the Alps. The air above was refreshingly chilled and the water below was serene. The width of the canal did not reveal the grandeur of the lake where we were heading. Ducks and geese ushered the way through the sea green water. The sanctity of nature had already cast a spell on me. This was just the beginning.




As the narrow canal opened into the lake, the ascending ranges of hills shaped the horizon beyond the enormous lake. The ship was splashing myriads of water beads creating waves in the calm Thunersee as she made her way into the vastness.


After sailing for half an hour the ship stopped at Sudlauenen and some new passengers joined us. It was a very quiet place with a jetty and a humble shelter as a waiting area for the passengers. We visited this place again the next day to visit St. Beatus Caves which was an experience by itself. The stream of roaring water cascading through the caves dived into the lake to form a milky white waterfall. 


As we sailed the vista of the steep cliff along the edge of the lake was bisected by serpentine road which was hanging over the lake, zigzagging through the tunnels and cutting through the rocks. 


The angular layers of rock formation created an interesting pattern on the cliff.                          

The hamlets along the foothills were delight to the eyes. The double or triple storied houses spread on the slope of the foothills appeared as toy houses which accentuated the height of the mountain in the backdrop. The covered yachts along the edge of the lake were still draped in blue or white covers because of the heavy rains in the previous week.
It would have been nice to see some of the yachts out on the lake with there bright sails fluttering with the wind. Soon we reached the next stop at Merligen
From Merligen the ship started away from the shore across the vast lake. As we came in the middle of the lake, we were entranced by the eternity of the lake and the grandeur of the mountains.



After spending an hour on the deck I was feeling very cold and thought of relaxing in the lounge as the ship sailed  toward the next stop in Merligen.  Arnav was having a great time  running around on the deck and refused to come in with me, so Prasad agreed to look after him.  I went to the restaurant and ordered a cup of cappuccino. Neither the warmth of the lounge nor the aroma of the coffee could hold me inside and I was out on the deck again in 5 minutes. 

Just then the sun peeped from the clouds and shot the rays on the waves. The lake responded back by glittering. The combination of sun and wind was elating.
                                                      


The ship's next stop at Faulensee offered the same mesmerising views of the lush green pastures defined with cluster of tall coniferous trees. The houses hidden behind the trees revealed a palette of brown sloping roofs. After a halt of 5 minutes we headed to final stop at Spiez.

As we reached Spiez we were completely spellbound by the beauty and tranquil of The ThunerseeJust before entering the Spiez railway station to catch a train back to Interlaken I captured my last glance at the beautiful lake and an everlasting memory of this rendezvous in my camera.
View of Lake Thun and Spiez Castle from the entrance of Spiez railway station.


Monday, August 2, 2010

Marie-Antoinette's Estate, Versailles, France

Versailles was a pleasant surprise after the predictably exciting visit to all the famous monuments in Paris. As a landscape architect I had studied about the grand scale of the Versailles Palace gardens and I always wanted to visit them. Truly, the grandeur of the gardens was as mesmerising as anticipated.

After spending half a day in the Palace gardens we decided to take a quick visit to the Marie-Antoinette's Estate. Honestly speaking, I had no great expectations from this place after the impressive strolls in the Palace gardens.

But I was wrong! The humble rustic beauty of The Queen's Hamlet was more affable than the grandeur of the Palace gardens. The estate built between 1783 and 1787 in the spirit of true Norman Village with eleven houses spread around a big lake made an everlasting graceful impression on the my mind.


Tranquil!!!


The meandering pathways guided me to a calm lake edged with modest structures on one side and gardens on the other side. The silence in estate was perforated by chirping of birds and footsteps of few tourist. 
The waterwheel.


Each house has its own garden with lush green creepers hugging the columns to reach the roofs. The flowerbeds add colour to the place.

My visit to the estate proved that big surprises come in small packages.